Day Three: Glacier Pass to Slate Peak
11 miles

On the third day we had a steep morning climb to get to the top of Grasshopper Pass. I was so glad that we had water last night so that we wouldn't run out on our way up. At the top, we took in the magnificent views in all directions.

But once again we had to think about water. There would be a source about a mile after the pass and then nothing on the trail until we neared Harts Pass, about five miles further. Even then, we'd have to take a spur to the Meadows Campground to find it. We agreed that we'd meet at the spur trail to the campground for lunch.

After Grasshopper Pass the views again were spectacular. The North Cascades has some of the most rugged and magnificent scenery along the entire Pacific Crest Trail--only the Sierras can compare.

But along with the golden peaks came another, unwelcome site. Beyond the ridge we saw a column of smoke. This was a new forest fire that seemed closer to our route. I was very worried that the trail might be closed.

Kevin was ahead, but Bob, Chuck and I hiked the ridge of Tatie Peak and watched the fire in the distance. We posed for some photos and then started to run into day hikers and trail workers, who told us that the PCT was still open. This fire--Tatoosh Buttes--was to the east of the trail. Our trip was still possible.
At the top of Grasshopper Pass, Scout poses with Azurite Peak in the background.
Left: The Tatoosh Buttes fire from Tatie Peak. At the far left side is the Slate Peak fire lookout. Right: The Meadows Campground at Harts Pass is a bleak setting to get water.
The day still had its surprises. We found Kevin at the spur and walked down to the Meadows Campground, which is a primative car campground at Harts Pass. A few years ago a wildfire struck the place, as we found just the burned out shell of a once popular site. Bob was shocked, since he had car camped here many years ago. Still, there was a creek with water, so we loaded up and treated it.

The heat was getting to me and I wasn't sure we'd make the campsite we were shooting for. It was called the Bensen Creek camp and it came after Harts Pass, the only place in this section where the PCT actually crosses a road. But since it was only mentioned in The Book of Lies, and since the trail workers had never heard of it, we feared that it wouldn't be there -- and it would be without any water. I wasn't sure what we were going to do, but again we loaded up on water.

Our luck turned as we neared the road. There was a closed ranger station with a sign welcoming backpackers and promising "Water for Drinking Bottles." Sure enough, there was a large water jug, so we filled up again. This was the "trail magic" I had always read about on the PCT list--but then more magic occurred. A young woman and her dog rushed up to us with Gatorade bottles and asked if we were thru hikers. I had to admit we were "only" section hikers. She said she carried the same kind of pack that I did (Go Lite Gust) on her 2003 PCT hike. Her trail name was Little Ewok and I asked if she knew Yogi and Cupcake--whose 2003 trail journals I had read. Her eye lit up--"Know them, I hiked in the Sierras with them!" We spent about 15 minute talking about the trail. Kevin smiled as I chatted away. "I could tell you were really in your element," he said.
Left: Point Man, Fung and Scout pose with Little Ewok and her dog, Granite, at the Harts Pass Ranger Station. Right: A sign promises some trail magic for thirsty hikers.
Some of us were pretty tired after that break, but I was energized. "Let's see how far we can get," I said. I knew that there would be a campsite near the Slate Peak Lookout, since this is the last PCT trailhead before Canada. About a quarter mile after we hiked past the road, we came across another running creek. So there was more water than we expected--a good sign. But some of us were getting very tired, so when Kevin and I came to the trailhead junction, we turned right and found the campsite. It had a spectacular view of the open parklands that surround Harts Pass, with a range of sharp mountains in the background. Who cares if there is a road nearby, the view is priceless, Kevin said--and we all had to agree. Because there was no water, we didn't have a fire and tried to conserve on our meals. We even ate out of the cooking pots to cut down on dirty dishes. After dinner we watched the sun set and the moon rise over the North Cascades. The beauty was close to heart-breaking.

Day Four
Day Five
Day Six
Day Seven
Day Eight

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