Day One--Rainy Pass to Methow Pass
Distance: 9.5 miles
This trip had a lot of significance for me. If I completed it, I would have hiked almost the entire state of Washington on the Pacific Crest Trail in four years--more than 500 miles with just a few minor sections still to cover. It would end at the same border monument that is so meaningful to the hundreds of thru hikers who try to walk the whole 2,650 miles from Mexico to that very spot. And it would be another renewal for me, mentally, spiritually and physically. It keeps me sane in this sometimes insane world.
Planning was again complicated. We needed someone to drive us to the trailhead, about 3 hours from Seattle. At the other end of the trail, we needed reservations at the Manning Park Lodge in Canada. From there, we'd take a Greyhound bus to Vancouver and Amtrak back to Seattle.
The same crew as last time signed up to go--three magazine editors and a lawyer. We are all advocates of lightweight backpacking, which means lighter shoes, mininal pack weight and not too much extra for food or clothing. Point Man and Scout brought hiking poles, while Fung and I decided to stay with our pole-free existence.
We arrived at the Rainy Pass trailhead around 10:30 a.m. and started hiking by 11. Stuart, our driver, wanted to hike with us.
He thought he would just accompany us for a few miles, but we kept up a good pace even though our packs probably weighed 40 pounds each. It is about five miles and 2,000 feet of elevation gain to Cutthroat Pass. Stu didn't think we were going to get there so quickly and was surprised when we really did approach the pass. Many famous North Cascades peaks were on view--Silver Star and Liberty Bell spires to name two.
Going up the trail, I felt something damp on my legs. It turned out to caused by a leak in my water bottle. When I explained the problem to Stu, he graciously loaned me his water bottle for the whole trip. I had a liter bottle inside my pack as well, but I needed a thinner bottle for the pocket on the side of my pack. Thanks Stu.
Water would be a concern the entire trip. There were waterless parts of the trail for sometimes 5 or 10 miles. We had to plan carefully or we'd be plenty thirsty. After Cutthroat Pass came a waterless stretch for about five miles. Our destination was a meadow near Methow Pass, and if we were feeling good, a half-mile hike up to the Snowy Lakes. But because we got a late start, I was not sure we'd have the time to make it that far.
Once we crossed over the next pass, Granite Pass, we could see the trail as it curved along the side of the ridge below Tower Mountain. It would be a long, smooth traverse and by late afternoon we arrived a meadows below the mountain where the guidebook said there were camps.
Yes, there were camps, but also lots of campers. Vicki and Randy were a couple celebrating their wedding anniversary who was going to go all the way to Canada just like us. Nice people, but we didn't want to set up our site near them. Fortunately Scout and Fung found a dry camp about 500 feet up the book track toward Snowy Lakes. There was even a hearth for a campfire--although we didn't want to have one that night due to the fragile surroundings.
After a great meal of chicken and rice burritos, three of us took a quick look at the lakes. The boot track was straight up and I was grateful that we didn't try to go all the way to the lakes, which were cold and barren anyway.
Day Two
Day Three
Day Four
Day Five
Day Six
Day Seven
Day Eight
We pose at the top of Cutthroat Pass after the first five miles of hiking. Left to right, Fung, Point Man, Bullfrog, and Scout . Photo by Stuart Goldsmith.
